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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.